The Basic Applique Stitch

By Neysa J. Powell , former TAS President

    Although there are several different types of appliqué stitches, the stitch described here is one of the more traditional stitches for needleturn appliqué. It is a strong and durable stitch that performs well on all shapes of appliqué.

1.) Cut a length of thread approximately 15" long in a color that either matches or blends well with the appliqué fabric. Thread the needle and tie a quilter's knot at one end of the thread.

The first appliqué stitch can be made in one of two ways. The thread can come up from behind the background fabric through to the marked line on the appliqué piece (in which case the knot will show from behind the block); or begin the stitch by slipping the knot between the folded seam allowance of the appliqué fabric (in which case the knot will be hidden inside the seam allowance). The seam allowance is the area of fabric from the marked "turning line" to the outer edge of the fabric.

Typically, if you are right handed you will stitch from right to left; and if you are left handed, you will stitch from left to right. This is not a rule...but rather a guideline. There are always exceptions to this, so stitch in the direction in which you are more comfortable.

2.) Once the first stitch has been made and the needle is in the appliqué fabric you are ready to begin stitching. Place the needle directly off of the edge of the appliqué fabric ...keeping it even with the thread that is in the appliqué fabric and then insert it into the background fabric. The needle will move underneath the background fabric about 1/16". As the needle emerges from the background fabric pierce the edge of the appliqué piece by catching only two or three threads along the folded edge.

Once again move the needle directly off of the appliqué fabric and back into the background fabric. Your needle will move under the background fabric and emerge about 1/16" away from the last stitch. Each time the needle emerges it will pick up two or three threads from the folded edge of the appliqué piece.

After every two or three stitches, give the needle a very slight pull. As you are pulling the thread with the stitching hand, place either your finger or thumb of the opposite hand at the fold of the fabric, applying a small amount of pressure. This will keep the fabric from trying to pucker as you tighten the stitches. Do not pull hard enough to cause the fabric to ripple. Keeping the same amount of tension in each of the stitches will help to keep the stitched edge of the appliqué piece uniform, crisp, and clean.